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<td><img border="0" src="http://www.peachparts.com/diy/oilfilter1/diy_oilchange.jpg" width="500" height="187"></td>
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<B><i>Introduction:</i></B> This is the second in a series of articles designed to help the individual Do-It-Yourselfer be able to service their
own cars. If you have any doubts or are uncertain of your ability to complete these procedures we advise you to seek professional assistance from a qualified technician.
We have selected a 1995 E420  to illustrate the procedure for changing oil
and filter. Other E-Class vehicles may utilize similar but not exactly
the same steps described below. </font>
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<i><b>Be advised:</b> </i>PeachParts accepts
no liability for the information contained within this procedure nor for any adverse
outcomes as a result of following this procedure. In other words...the risk is
100% YOURS.</font></td>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3"><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt">
</o:p><b><i>Tools needed:</i></b> a 13mm socket, extension, ratchet,
wobble, and Topsider suction device.   
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<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3"><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"><b><i>Parts
needed:</i></b> one oil filter (Part# 119 180 00 09 in our case),
sealing gaskets/rings (part number includes filter and needed gaskets),
and several quarts of oil (8.5 quarts in our application). See your
owner's manual for recommended weights and capacity. We recommend
using whatever oil your mechanic uses when he/she services the car.
PeachParts recommends this procedure only for "in-between" oil
changes. It is still best to take your car to a dealer or qualified
independent for its scheduled maintenance services. There's no
substitute for having a trained and experienced Tech inspect your car
for potential issues before they become major problems.
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<td><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3"><b><i>Procedure:</i></b>
We begin by parking the car on level ground. You want the engine oil
slightly warm but not up to full operating temperature hot. Park the
car, open the hood, and locate the following items; oil filter housing,
dipstick/tube, oil fill cap. A good precaution is to put a fender cover
on the right fender to protect your car's finish from dropped tools or
oil. Rags placed strategically under hood around prime spillage areas
are also a plus.</font></td>
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<td align="center"><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3">Remove the
intake hose, oil fill cap and dipstick.</font></td>
<td align="right"><img border="0" src="http://www.peachparts.com/diy/oilfilter1/diy_oil_remove.jpg" width="290" height="210"></td>
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<td><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">Then take the 13mm socket
on the extension with wobble and loosen the oil filter-housing bolt 4-5
complete turns. This allows air to get in there so the oil can drain
out.</font></td>
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<td rowspan="2"><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3">Now it is time
for the Topsider. </font>
<p><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3">It may also be helpful to
make a 45 degree cut in the end of the Topsider tube to prevent it from
sealing against the bottom of the oil pan. Fully close the hose clamp
and pump up the Topsider 40-50 times to build a sufficient vacuum. Then
just insert the Topsider tube down the dipstick tube as far as it will
go. When you feel it bottom out, you know you are there. When the tube
is all the way in and the Topsider is pumped up simply release the
vacuum and let the Topsider go to work. You should see oil filling the
tube almost instantly. It should take approximately 15-20 minutes for
all the oil to be sucked out. During this time it may be helpful to
inspect other under hood items. About 5 minutes into the oil removal you
can begin removing the old filter. Take the 13mm socket and remove the
cover completely. Be careful not to drip too much oil on the surrounding
areas.</font></td>
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<td><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">Then take a paper towel or
rag and remove the cover. There should be two gaskets on that cover that
are replaced when the new filter is put in. You may also remove the old
filter at this point. You will want something to put the old filter in
so it does not spill or leak oil all over. A ziplock bag works well for
this. With the cover off, remove the two old gaskets. A pick or similar
tool may ease in removal but a pen-tip, key, knifepoint, etc will work
in a pinch.</font></td>
<td><img border="0" src="http://www.peachparts.com/diy/oilfilter1/diy_oil_filtercap.jpg" width="290" height="242"></td>
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<td><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">Once you have the two old
gasket rings removed you can pre-lube the new rings. Take a drop or so
of new oil and lightly coat both the new ring gaskets. The
bigger/thicker gasket goes up under the top of the cover, the
smaller/thinner gasket goes in the groove further down. Put on the
big/thick gasket first, then put on the thin/small gasket second. That
done, you should be ready to pop the new filter in.</font></td>
<td><img border="0" src="http://www.peachparts.com/diy/oilfilter1/diy_oil_oring1.jpg" width="290" height="415"></td>
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<td rowspan="4"><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">Insert the new
filter into the housing so that it is perfectly centered. This will make
bolting the cover back on much easier. By now the oil should be pretty
much sucked out. When the Topsider has removed all of the oil you will
hear sucking noises. When significantly no more oil is being sucked out
carefully remove the Topsider hose from the dipstick tube. Wipe clean
and run some suction through to clean the tube as much as possible. You
can then set the Topsider aside for now. Get the 13mm socket and tighten
down the oil filter-housing cap. Use no more than approximately 20
ft-lbs of torque on this. If you over tighten and damage that bolt you
are in for a new assembly and big $$$ repair bills. With the oil filter
cap tightened down and the oil sucked out you can begin putting the new
oil in. Your oil fill cap should still be removed. Begin pouring the new
oil in through there. Pour almost as many quarts as your owner manual
states is the capacity. Then begin pouring the last quart while
consistently checking the oil level via the dipstick. Be careful not to
overfill. When you have the oil level a few millimeters above the min
mark on the dipstick you can put the oil fill cap back on. To be
absolutely picky you would want to prime the V8 engines to avoid timing
chain tensioner rattle. A quick check of the oil level, oil filter
housing, and oil fill cap should reveal the level to be between the
min/max marks on the dipstick, the filter housing to be secured, and the
oil fill cap on. You are then ready to restart your engine.</font></td>
<td align="center"><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000"><b>INCORRECT
PLACEMENT</b></font></td>
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<td align="center"><font color="#000000" face="Arial" size="3"><b>CORRECT
PLACEMENT</b></font></td>
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<td rowspan="2"><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">Start your
engine and check that your oil pressure is normal. Shut off your engine,
wait a few moments and recheck your oil once more to insure that the oil
that has filled the filter has not dropped the oil level too low. Add
more oil if necessary to bring the level between the Min and Max level.
Be sure to dispose of used motor oil through an approved disposal
facility. Your corner oil-change station or auto parts store will accept
your used oil for disposal.</font>
<p><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">You may also want to make
a notation in your maintenance book indicating the oil and filter
change, mileage, date and oil used. </font></p>
<p><font face="Arial" size="3" color="#000000">That's all there is to
it.</font></td>
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